The route “Crème brutalée” (III+ 4+ M4+ R, 150m) was first climbed on 7/3/2026 by Sp. Kyriakou - St. Karantinakis.
The line lies between “Ridge of the Triestines” and “Crème caramel”. It shares the same start as “Crème caramel” but after the initial section, it follows gullies, ramps and rock terrain, eventually emerging at the exit of “Ridge of the Triestines”.
The first repetition was realized on 8/3/2026 by D. Daskalakis - St. Konstantakopoulos in 6 hours.
The route requires good technique, a strong will due to run-outs, and the ability to place protection in difficult spots. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are the most demanding, with the 3rd being the route's crux.
Ice quality varies throughout the length of the route.
For the 1st pitch (AI2 M3, 60m), we enter via “Crème caramel” starting up a small dihedral before continuing left across easy terrain, until reaching the rock, where the belay is set.
For the 2nd pitch (AI5 M4+, 65m), we follow the slab to the left of “Crème caramel”, continue up a gully to the left, and set the belay on the wall of the ramp.
For the 3rd pitch (AI5 M4+, 60m), we start from the left side of the large wall and traverse up and to the right until exiting it. The climbing involves rock, ice, and grassy patches, making protection difficult. After exiting the wall, we enter an easy ramp, followed by a section of ice (AI3, 20m) leading to a cave, where we set up the belay.
For the 4th pitch (AI3+ M3, 50m), we descend from the cave and follow a narrow ice gully, encountering a short move (M3) midway. Protection is tricky, though the terrain is relatively easy. We belay on the rock to the left.
For the 5th pitch (AI3, 75m), we continue along the natural line of the gully until reaching a ledge, where we set up the belay.
For the 6th pitch (M3, 70m), we traverse right along the ledge and enter the “Ridge of the Triestines”, we pass a small tower and complete a short move (M3) before reaching the ridge, where we set up the belay.
For the 7th pitch (110m), we traverse the ridge moving simultaneously, watching out for cornices or other hazards, until reaching the ledge where the “Couloir of Democracy” ends.
For the 8th pitch (AI2, 60m), we follow an easy couloir that leads to the summit.
Access to the base of the route is easy from the refuge, involving a 20min walk.
For the return, if you have reached the summit, follow the descent couloir back to the refuge (30min total) or, alternatively, upon reaching the large ledge, you can traverse to the right until you meet the descent couloir leading to the refuge (also 30min total).