Vardousia - Skorda Pitimalikou

Skorda Pitimalikou is the name given to the eroded northwest slopes of Korakas (2495m), which dominate the view across from the Pitimaliko mountain huts and which span 1Km in length. Due to their privileged position (easy access and existence of two mountain huts), they are today among the most popular areas for mixed climbing in Greece, offering a large number of routes, a wide array of difficulties and a simple approach and return.

Skorda Pitimalikou host more than 30 routes, mainly mixed winter climbing, with a wide range of grades from 45° up to 90° and M1 up to M5+, but of moderate height between 50m to 430m. Because it has a west orientation, the quality of ice is often good. The routes are characterized by varied terrain including couloirs, dihedrals and slabs, which makes it a worthwhile destination for experienced and intermediated mountaineers, as well as a goal for beginners.

Access

To climb on Skorda Pitimalikou the most appropriate point of access is the village of Athanasios Diakos, to the east, with the approach being made possible through the dirt road (E4) up until the mountain huts at Pitimaliko.

The approach for the base of the routes is easy and obvious from the mountain huts, while the return is possible via either Portes or Koprisies, however, care is needed in evaluating the quality of the snow. Avalanches are not at all uncommon throughout the slopes of Pitimaliko.

Climbing history

Due in part to their central location, but also their impressive natural lines, Skorda Pitimalikou did not wait long until they saw their first winter ascent, which was the “Rampa” (II PD+, 150m) by G. Polykratis - G. Michailidis - St. Vasilopoulos in 1951. Over the next 30 years only a few new routes, including the only summer rock-climbing ones, were added, featuring a difficulty of PD+ up to TD.

The establishment of “Solaris” (II AD, 200m) by Tr. Adamakopoulos in 1982 brought the first golden age to Skorda Pitimalikou and was followed by consecutive additions such as “Aris” (II 2 M2, 400m) in 1983 and “ET” (II AD+ M1+, 250m) in 1985. The development of the headwalls continued over the next decade with 13 new mixed routes and achieving an increase in difficulties with the establishment of the second M4-graded route in Vardousia, “Aspasmos” (III 4 M4, 140m).

Skorda Pitimalikou returned to the forefront in the late 2000s with over 10 new lines, both longer and more difficult than before, showcasing the opportunities offered by the rock-face but also the abilities of the new generation of climbers. Among them stand out “Ouranoskala” (II M5+, 120m) by K. Gavriil - S. Theodoridis - A. Sykaris - D. Daskalakis which was the first M5 route in Vardousia, “Frou frou ki aromata” (M5 A2, 100m) by G. Torelli - Th. Kytipis and “Kopsochronia” (II 3 M2+, 430m) which is the longest route of Skorda Pitimalikou.

In 2022, during a panhellenic mountaineering meet, important repeats were completed but also a new route, named “For Hermes and Torelli” (M5+, 150m) by D. Karanikas - V. Theodorou, was established.