Korakas (2495m) is the highest peak of Vardousia and occupies a prominent position at the northern end of the impressive 16Km long ridge which terminates at the glacially sculpted moraines of the Koprisies plateau. Korakas is 3,4Km west of Athanasios Diakos and 1,4Km east of the Pitimalikos mountain huts, at a central location and protected by steep slopes and ridges. The name of the summit refers to the ancient name of the broader massif, which was “Ori Koraks”.
Korakas offers almost exclusively mixed climbing routes of difficulty from M2 up to M4 and a height of 160m to 250m on its northeast face. Older classic ascents of a winter grade between AD and TD have been recorded on the east and southwest faces, while there is also the adventurous “Korakas ridge”, which can be attempted as either a dry or mixed route.
Access
To climb on Korakas the most appropriate point of access is the village of Agios Athanasios to the east, with the approach being possible by the dirt road to the mountain huts (E4).
For the base of the routes on the northeast face, we ascend from the Pitimalikos mountain huts towards Mega Kampos via one of the couloirs (45° - 60°) and then continue by descending into the depressions at the base of the peak. The start of “Korakas ridge” is the top of Skorda Moutsounitsas and can be approached either in conjunction with some other route, or by the normal trail to the Koprisies plateau. Additionally, an alternative approach to Korakas is possible via the route “Moutsounitsa ridge” (AD+, 400m).
Climbing history
The first winter ascent of Korakas was completed by A. Kotsampasis - O. Kolettis in 1958, during a time of increased interest in Vardousia and was followed by two more routes by renowned mountaineers of the era. That same year, G. Michailidis - K. Bampouras completed the first ascent of the steep Tooth of Korakas (2160m), part of “Korakas ridge”.
What followed was sparse visits by climbers, with only three new routes being established until 1996 when the first complete traverse and equipment of the “Korakas ridge” (IV M3, 2000m) by M. Zervas - G. Kalogeropoulos - G. Potamianou reignited interest in the highest summit of Vardousia. In 2008 the first mixed routes were also added, on the northeast face, with the “Go to the crow” (III- 4+ M2, 160m) and “Path of the guides” (III+ 4 M4, 160m) which were completed as part of an EOOA instructor’s course.