Vardousia - Gidovouni

Gidovouni (2080m) is a rocky summit of west Vardousia which is essentially the northern continuation of the Skoufia - Soufles - Plaka - Pyramida - Pano Psilo - Kato Psilo group, and frames the Mousounitsiotika Livadia, northwest of Pitimaliko.

Below the amphitheater of Piramida - Gidovouni are the shepherding huts of Skasmeni Strougka, from where the trail (III, 200m) to the peak begins. An alternative ascent to Gidovouni can also be made from Koufolaka to the west, initially ascending to the Pyramida - Gidovouni col and from there to the summit.

Gidovouni offers a small number of interesting rock and mixed routes, as well as a few scrambling options, either individually as part of a wider route such as the “Western traverse”. In total there are 12 recorded routes, with difficulties from III up to VI+ and of a height between 150m to 350m, on three faces, the most popular being the east-southeast face.

Access

For summer climbing in Gidovouni, access is from the village of Athanasios Diakos to the east or from the village of Artotina to the west. The approach is possible via the E4 trail or via the dirt road. For winter climbing, the only option is the village of Athanasios Diakos.

For the routes of the south ridge and east face we ascend from Skasmeni Strougka to the Piramida-Gidovouni col. While for the western and northwestern face we approach through the location of Koufolaka.

The descent from the summit using the southeast gully which returns to Skasmeni Strougka is possible without protection in dry conditions, while for the winter there are rappelling anchors.

Climbing history

The first ascent of Gidovouni is unclear and there is no mention of an ascent by K. Natsis - G. Petrocheilos during their visit in 1936, so the first recorded route was the winter ascent of G. Michalidis - D. Liagkos in 1955, who returned to Gidovouni many times over the next 23 years, establishing three new routes of difficulty up to TD+.

The 1970s proved to be the turning point for route development on the peak, with “Botini - Spanoudi - Eleftheriadi” (VI+, 240m) greatly increasing the difficulty, while six more new routes followed, mainly on dry rock, with the maximum length being achieved by the route “Liagkou - Terzi” (TD, 350m) in 1973.

There is no available information on any new routes established after 1980.